I had hoped you wouldnt have tried it Bradley...after all I ranted about...

Good to see you learned the lesson, and didn't crash and burn...or rather burn and crash as the case might have been.

Thanks for playing the safety guy now though.

Climb Safe!
Icabod

Thanks for all the responses, I had thought about friction after I had wrote it, and was just wondering if anyone had tried it, so far after many descents with double rope I have not destroyed my rope, just got a new friction saver today and can't wait to put it in the tree along with myself...

May all your climbs be joyous...

Hey that's the ticket. Glad to read that your are taking the right procautions to protect the cambium and your ropes. I have compared ropes used without sleeves versus mine that have always used protection and the wear is very noticable. SO as Karl Maldren always used to say; (Kinda of) Never climb without them.

See you at the top,
Dan and I approved this message.

I've spent a lot of time working with the various friction hitches on SRT. There are many variables that need to be accounted for and adjustments made to the systems. Since all of your load is on the hitch more wraps are going to be needed. Where I use a 3 over 1 distel on DdRT I generally need 4 over 1 on SRT.

The cord that's used for the friction hitch on SRT makes a big difference too. Using cord that has been developed specifically for hitches is a good idea. HRC from New England Ropes and Bee Line from Yale are good choices. Both are made to put up with the extreme demands of friction hitches.

I use the HRC (Heat Resistant Cord) cord from N.E. that Tom mentioned and it works great - hardly any heat buildup and won't glaze your rope like the Blakes will. I use it with the Knut hitch which also works great - grabs quickly and releases quickly. Also, like Tom, I use one more rap for SRT than on DdRT.