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Re:Floating D type saddles (1 viewing) (1) Guests
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TOPIC: Re:Floating D type saddles
#131456
emr (User)
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Re:Floating D type saddles 7 Months, 3 Weeks ago  
Cambium, I climb daily and the padding that I have issues with is in the legs, not the back. That padding is holding up just fine. We get new saddles at work on a 5 year rotation, or sooner if a problem arises. My Glide should last 5 years easy, especially now that I climb with the Tengu also. I think the Tengu is built to last, but it is not as smooth and mobil as the saddles with the bridge. Just like everything in tree climbing there are trade offs. With the NT you get comfort and a great price, with others you get better movement but with less comfort and a higher price.... just my opinion from the saddles that I have climbed in as well as the saddles my co-workers have climbed in. There are 4 other climbers that climb on a regular basis at work and we all have different saddles, if that gives you some insight as to how personal of a decision it is.
 
 
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#131457
moss (User)
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Re:Floating D type saddles 7 Months, 3 Weeks ago  
cambium wrote:
...Thanks for the info concerning the Butterfly II. Just looking at the way the NT saddles cradle the back of the leg does suggest they would be far more comfortable on that part of the body. I wonder if they (NT) have considered making a rope bridge saddle.

The design of the NT harness doesn't lend itself to a floating anchor bridge. It would have to be a total redesign. The NT as is doesn't need an anchor bridge, there is enough movement in the legstrap/belt loop system to let you change positions and do what you need to do in a tree. The floating anchor bridge system evolved to allow for reaching out on the end of limb walks to prune outer branches. It's a specialized evolution of harness design for the specific needs of daily work climbers.

Generally speaking arborist work climbers spend more time standing directly on the tree because of the nature of their work. They have to be in close proximity to limbs they are cutting. The harnesses they use are not designed for long hang times. Work climbers get in and out of the tree as quickly as possible, time is money. When you're rec climbing try spending more than 5-10 minutes standing on a branch. Your legs will start shaking. It's very tiring to put your weight on one leg or the other or both for any length of time in a tree. When you put your weight on the rope and harness you can rest your legs, it's the key to being able to stay in the tree continuously for 3 or more hours. This is common for rec climbers, I barely consider it a climb if I don't go over 3 hours. Pro climbers have the skills to move very quickly in the tree, resetting TIPs etc. This kind of movement in the tree takes years of daily climbing to achieve. For rec climbers it's going to take longer to acquire new tie-ins and work your way around the tree. You have to be able to sit and rest while you work on your next move.

Rec climbing is a really different way of being in a tree than work climbing and I think the gear and technique is going to be a little different. For instance I don't personally know one work climber who uses a sleeve or pipe _style_ cambium saver and I've climbed with a good number. It's either no cambium protection, ring-ring type saver or ropeguide (ART) _style_ false crotch. These approaches fit the arborist climbing _style_. They can be used for rec climbing but they are designed/evolved for the specific needs of work climbers. It's not a great idea for a rec climber to blindly model their gear and technique after work climbers, unless there is a specific reason _base_d on climbing experience to do so.

The BII harness is an example of an excellent work harness. It's not a great rec harness, unless you're an arborist making a weekend rec climb I've done a fair amount of trimming work in NT harnesses, they are very functional for doing tree work when you need to do it.

This is not an ad for NT harnesses, many rec climbers use non-NT harnesses. I wrote this excessively long rambling post because I think if you're a beginner rec climber it's really important not to _base_ your gear and technique decisions on the latest work climbing gear and _style_. Start simple and learn how to be in a tree. Spend many hours climbing, rope and harness. You don't need the latest and most expensive to learn the most important skills of climbing. I often climb in an NT Basic harness. It's a great harness, doesn't need all the bells and whistles, plus it's light, folds up small and doesn't cost much. Then when you decide you want more features you'll be able to make an informed decision on which direction to go. Your NT Basic will always be there for a quick woods climb or it will make a great second harness to bring a friend up.
-moss
 
 
 
Last Edit: 04/01/2008 09:02pm By moss.
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#131459
cambium (User)
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Re:Floating D type saddles 7 Months, 3 Weeks ago  
The sum of the parts is truly greater than the whole, especially when it comes to the knowledge surrounding something as esoteric as tree climbing. I need only recall recent conversations with friends and family to be reminded that climbing trees with ropes in either a recreational or work related capacity is an activity with which most people are unfamiliar. While local arborist supply shops are well versed on tools of the trade, the idea of recreational tree climbing isn't something they have had to contend with very often.

I must admit that I have been climbing trees with ladders and luck for years until recently thinking that the tools of rock climbing (readily available and affordable through places like REI) might make some of my trunk hugging efforts less dangerous and less physically demanding. That lead me to internet searches through which I discovered a whole world of gear specific to the climbing of trees. I'm sure there are parts of the country where the mention of tree climbing conjures images of adults donning gear, setting ropes, and ascending into the canopy with the art of technique. Most parts though, still see it as an activity reserved for children and those with soft bones. As I continue to read from the small body of books available on the subject, I am ever so thankful for the knowledge and input of others who have found their way into trees. I look forward to sharing and learning more from you through this forum. In the meantime, if anyone needs constructive input concerning the making of fine furniture, I'd be happy to help.

cambium
 
 
 
Getting in touch with arboreal roots by climbing into the crowns of trees.
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#131460
oldtimer (User)
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Re:Floating D type saddles 7 Months, 3 Weeks ago  
I've done a fair amount of trimming work in NT harnesses, they are very functional for doing tree work when you need to do it. Moss said.

Me Too! as a matter of fact yesterday p.m. I completed the removal of a large branch that I have cleared out of limbs a week ago and I wanted to try some of the lowering techniques I have seen posted at Treebuzz and Treeworld. It was a great work out right at my backyard. I am always very careful, very methodical, doble check every move and TIP before engaging the chain saw. In other words making sure the job is done correctly, safely and I stay in one piece.
My New Tribe Work Saddle does the job well. Very comfortable and secure
 
 
 
Oldtimer,
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