Originally posted by Treeman
The prusik loop (6 wrap knot) he is referring to is a life support system unlike the accessory foot prusik loop (4 wrap knot) used by recreational climbers. The 6 wrap knot is used as the main friction knot as a climber ascends up a doubled rope. The doubled rope does not move over the branch as in double rope technique. It is a technique used by professional arborists and is seen in the speed climbing events at the tree climbing competitions. It is the fastest way up a tree but it requires skill to master the technique.

Very nicely put! However, you forgot to mention that it's fun

love
nick

Nick,

In the intereset of speeding up my climbs I decided that I would set up a practice in my backyard to learn the footlock. I learned quickly that I'm going to need alot of practice, and to set my line farther from the bole. I think that the brusies on my knees have finaly healed from that mistake. My only problem is slippage at the prussik. It could be that the cordage (8mm) was too small or too stiff, but I seemed to be having difficulty getting the knot to bite when I decided to rest (everytime I made any upward motion ).

Is there a trick that I'm missing? I really dont use the prussik much any more, I gave up on the foot loop about a year ago and started acting like he-man, my wife likes the way my arms look after a climb! When you advance the prussik how do you set the knot without loading it and slipping back down some?

First off, I'd say try the Klemheist instead of a regular Prussik.

Secondly, you're right, it does take a bit of practice if you want to learn how to footlock up a rope. I good way to get your feet to understand the motions is to tie in with a normal DRT (blake's hitch, or whatever you use), then foot lock up the tail of the rope. You won't be nearly as fast as when you are doing a straight footlock ascent, but you'll figure out what's going on down below.

It is way easier, like you mentioned, to footlock if you free hanging with no branches in your way.

Most importantly...tree climbing is recreation. If you don't like footlocking, don't do it. There are better ways to waste your time in the tree!

love
nick

I can see how it would be faster, just like SRT is faster than DRT (or D'dRT to be more specific). Do you tie one, or both ends of the rope off to the _base_ of the tree to keep the rope from moving around the anchor limb? I now understand it's not SUPPOSED to move, but it seems like you be in a world of hurt if it did start slipping.
Also, to get down do you just slowly lower yourself using the prusik? Patrick

For footlocking, do not tie the bottom of the rope to the tree. It needs to be slack to that your feet can reach down and scoop it up.

When I footlock, my left foot reaches under my right foot, scoops up the rope, brings it to the top of my right foot where the left foot then smashes the rope onto my right foot, thus giving me my lock.

For a perfect depiction of it, turn your bibles (Tree Climber's Companion) to page 42. There is a good de_script_ion and drawings, too!

love
nick

I was looking for a guideline _base_d on body height that I could use to determine how long the cord needs to be.

Nick,
Here are my thoughts on the footlock and prussik cords:

First of all, the footlock is awesome! Not that I'm any expert with it, but you're right--it's bliss once you get the technique down. It's my technique of choice for ascents less than 60 feet or so.

As for the cords... you mentioned body height, but I don't think that will make a good template. Length of arms, and _style_ of saddle make the difference. You want the prussik to sit just above one's hands, correct? Take a man and a woman, both 5'9", the woman will probably have shorter arms than the man. Even in spite of gender differences, who's to say one person's arms will be shorter or longer than another's in relationship to their total body height...

Now the _style_ of harness. I climb on a buckingham traverse with the sliding dee rings. This gives me a few inches of space between my waist and the TIP. If I climbed on a master, the TIP would be closer to my waist, and thus I will need a longer prussik cord to have it the appropriate length (so the knot is just above my hands).

If it isn't a matter of harness _style_, people may want a shorter cord, but that's their own preference.

With a little number crunching, I think you can figure out the appropriate length if you ask people to specify the _style_ of harness they use, and the length from the top of the shoulder to the first knuckles on the hand.

I'm sure there are other variables I'm not thinking of, but that's the best I got...