I was climbing with a split-tail on my main line and a split-tail on a long alternate lanyard (not a flipline). That makes 4 biners which got very crowded on my screw_link_/saddle attachment. So I tried to figure out a way to consolidate anchoring the "standing part" and bridge on one carabiner for the lanyard. I wanted to keep the split-tail for my main climbing line. So by doing this I'd be down to 3 biners which is better than 4.

Here's what I came up with. It's a pair of stacked double fisherman's loops. The green knot wraps around the loop of the orange knot, the orange knot wraps around the standing part and the tail of the green line:


Useless or useful? I understand that I could accomplish this more simply by doing a traditional biner tie-in using the tail of the main rope to make the bridge. The only advantage I can think of is that the attached tail can be replaced when it gets worn, and I like having a different color rope for the tail.
-moss

For my 2 cents worth:

The idea of a split-tail is to allow the user to take off working end of your climbing rope without untying. With a regular split-tail you have a biner on the bridge and one on the rope so you can unclip the working end and set it over a different anchor limb.

What I see will not let that happen.

I use a double-ended split-tail with a butterfly hitch in the middle that stays on my center delta. Each end of the rope can be used; one for climbing and the other as the longest lanyard you can have. People call this double rope end climbing (DREC)

I like you slack tender set up and Tom Dunlap would suggest to substute the pulley for a ring snap shackle.

See you at the top,
Dan

Thanks Dan, as I suspected, the usefullness of the knot and rig is limited.

I finally get it on the double-ended split-tail, this would solve my problem much more efficiently, thanks for the clear explanation!
-moss

And another 2-cents worth, Moss:

I like the Bunt-Line Hitch for attaching the end of a line to a carabiner. Look it up in Jepson's book. It's easy to tie and untie and very secure. I use it for all of my split-tails as well as the end of the climbing line.

OK, 4-cents worth...
With all of my split tails, I also have a traffic jam at the delta of my saddle. I substituted a pear-shaped screw _link_ for the delta. The pear _link_ is slightly larger than the delta and its shape seems to help organize things better. It's made by the same company as the delta and you can order it from New Tribe or Sherrill.

Regards,
-Knothead

I keep looking at the pretty picture trying to see what looks wrong to me. I think in a traditional split tail, doesn't the advantage come from being able to release the line without untying the Blake's? If both the tail and the climbing line are attached to the carabiner (or delta _link_) you lose this option. I think it would be more usefull if two carabiners were used.

But the different color ropes did give me an "aha!" moment. When facilatating climbs I always seem to have trouble with some kids understanding which rope to pull on and which knot to push up. The scenario pictured would be perfect for that.

Both ropes tied to the delta so I know the young-un won't go off rope, different colors to help them understand where to pull and where to push.

I like it.

I like this hookup you're showing here. Not better than a split tail, but it is better than having 2 bulky knots on one 'biner, or 2 seperate 'biners. Creative solution.

Now 2 spliced lines would fit on that 'biner real nice and allow you off-and-on capabilities.

And that is a very nice looking photo! Do you have a little studio in your house, or what!

love
nick