Screwgate is below standards for a production/work climber but there are no rules for rec climbers. Many rec climbers use screwgates. I would be consistent in what ever gate technology I used for life support use and a redirect is life support. So if you use a screwgate to anchor your rope on your harness then use it for your redirects. If you use autolockers on your harness and lanyards do the same for redirects. Otherwise you're setting yourself up for a mistake when you're tired, stressed or lacking concentration. Be consistent, don't make your brain do flip flops around life support connections.

The way I see it, if you're trying to figure out a way to make screwgates more secure then you probably shouldn't be climbing on them.
-moss

Question #1: Is the redirect gear system I described above "below standards"?
Answer; There are not Written Standards for Rec Climbers. It is up to the Climber Desires and Responsabilty to be safe while climbing.

Question #2: Would a screwgate carabiner be suitable to build up the false crotch, as pictured on p. 63 of "The Tree Climbert's Companion, by J. Jepson, 2nd Ed., instead of the double-locking carabiner, pictured and documented there?

I use both types of Biners (Auto-Locker and Screwgates) on my climbing system and I consider it to be safe and appropriate for my taste.

Question #3: Has there been a study of, probably non_meta_llic, add-on components that would serve to make a strength-rated screwgate carabiner vibration-proof and reasonably un-thread-proof?

Answer: No,that I'm aware but I don't have all the answers anyway! (Vibration Proof? Never heard that properly closed Biners will open up if vibrated.)

moss and oldtimer: Many thanks. Great recommendations! Let's see: Be consist, i.e. "no flip flops in trees" (good tree-climber wardrobe decision, too?); tailor your climbing _style_ to accommodate when you're tired; commit to safety and be responsible for maintaining safe habits and systems. Please correct me if I've misinterpreted either of you.

Having said all that, I believe that climb-rated (23kN+) screwgate carabiners, double-auto-locking carabiners, and stainless "screw_link_s" are secure.

I believe that still unanswered question is, "Can a screwgate carabiner be "properly closed" to adequately prevent un-threading and inadvertent opening?". No, say the pros.

Vibration, friction, shock. I believe all these types of forces should be considered as potential methods for thwarting a gate lock.

I think that something like the Tory Red Cap Finger Tips (http://www.toryinc.com/) might be adapted to reduce the tendency for the screwgate lock to un-thread. In fact, I'd say there might be a size that would be adequate to similarly reduce the ease with which some have said that they can thwart the double-auto-lock gate. I'll probably buy a handful, strictly for the ground-_base_d laboratory environment, and see what they'll do. OK, here's the disclaimer: This mere speculation on usefulness of a specific technology is in no way a recommendation to any climber to use any product referenced.

Thanks again.

I'm certainly no pro-arborist but I would say that there are two reasons for not using screw_link_s in climbing systems: 1) a rope moving through the screw_link_ could cause the gate to turn with it, undoing the gate, and 2) the slenderness of the steel compared to an Aluminium carabiner would cause a sharp bend in the rope, increasing the tensile stress, reducing the working life of the rope.

I've found when using screw_link_s for non-personal-safety fixings (I've used Maillon Rapide _link_s) the _link_s can be very hard to undo, particularly with wet/cold hands and if they've been done up too tight.

Michael

"no flip flops in trees" (good tree-climber wardrobe decision, too?); tailor your climbing __style__

Wait a minute I have seen pictures of Nick Climbing on Flip-flops and wearing colorfull pajama pants, So that recomendation on keeping with tailor "_style_" is out of the question!

Hey Nick, help me here. Where is your photo climbing on Flip flops, wearing pajamas and wearing a dust mask on a tree near the road in a park in CA? Inquiring minds want to see it again to show what climbing in _style_ is all about.

oldtimer wrote:
"no flip flops in trees" (good tree-climber wardrobe decision, too?); tailor your climbing __style__

Wait a minute I have seen pictures of Nick Climbing on Flip-flops and wearing colorfull pajama pants, So that recomendation on keeping with tailor "_style_" is out of the question!

Hey Nick, help me here. Where is your photo climbing on Flip flops, wearing pajamas and wearing a dust mask on a tree near the road in a park in CA? Inquiring minds want to see it again to show what climbing in _style_ is all about.

I'm hoping that someone (Nick) will run an "alternate footwear only" climb at the next rendezvous. There would be qualified medical personnel on hand to treat stubbed toes.
-moss