Hoo boy, looks like I’ve really let the mouse into the elephant pen on this one. Maybe I should clear some things up.
First of all, that picture was
not how I recommend ropes courses to operate. I figured you guys would be all over me on that one. Not disappointed.
After doing several weight tests on the cable from the ground, I went up to check the anchors on both ends for the umpteenth time and decided to try it out. It was getting late in the day, and I didn’t want to climb back down to grab a helmet (which I should’ve been wearing already, you got me on that one) and a lanyard. So I just chain _link_ed a couple locking biners and zipped down to the lower platform. Stupid? Maybe. One heck of a ride? You bet. Fortunately, no problems.
In fact, this is almost exactly like the set up used by many adventure parks (with the exception of the helmet), like the Treesort here in Southern Oregon for example.
Click here to see their set-up. Or
here, to see another set up like it. It works fine, but it’s not optimal. Hanging further below with a lever-operated brake and a safety stop at the end is better. I believe the Treesort has put up some sort of bungee stop at the end since I was there.
Ropes courses are like any other activity. Do it right, and you're safe. Do it wrong, and you'll get yourself injured. The same is true with rock climbing, tree climbing, snowboarding, mountain biking, or any other outdoor activity (with the possible exception of croquet). There is always the possibility of doing something really stupid, like getting your gloves sucked into the trolley, or not wearing a helmet…hmmm….
As far as frayed cable and leather gloves- it depends on the cable construction and the glove quality. Braking on 7x7 and 7x19 construction cable at least ¼” diameter isn’t a problem. I’ve tested medium to high-speed zip lines with 3/16” cable and medium duty gloves with little or no wear on the gloves. Most canopy tours and ropes courses will simply stitch an extra pad of leather onto the palm of a work glove when braking is really necessary. But like I said, it works great, but isn’t optimal. A mechanical brake (or something like the "mayan brake handles" Tom mentioned), and a little more distance from the line is preferable.
Regarding liability, injuries, etc.- all true. That’s why ropes courses have standards and regulations concerning set up and operation. I’m just the middle guy for the available products. I buy zip line components in bulk (harnesses, biners, cable, hardware, tensioning systems, etc., you name it) and retail it online. There are plenty of companies that will install, maintenance, and operate ropes courses (Oldtimer mentioned
www.bonsai-design.com, there’s also
www.giacanopytours.com), but that’s not something I’m even remotely interested in doing.
A little over a year ago, I started researching zip line construction, canopy tours, and ropes courses in general. I looked at multiple course designs, and came up with a fairly standard kit that most courses use, with small variations. Early on I realized I didn’t want to be installing these, due to liability, my inexperience, etc. So I just decided to retail the equipment to those who are qualified to do so. To my knowledge, there are only two prominent online zip line retail stores,
www.outdoorfunstore.com, and
www.ziplinehomekits.com. Both have an incredibly high mark up from wholesale, so I’m able to beat their prices with higher quality hardware.
Am I qualified to install and certify a ropes course? No. Definitely not. Maybe someday. But can I sell the gear? I don’t think that’s a problem. I may not know the first thing about tree climbing, but I can still get you a deal on a good piece of rope.
I built this zip line mostly so I can test multiple braking devices, get some experience for myself, and have some fun (not quite old enough for those beers
). I appreciate all the input and the concern for safety. You guys have been very helpful.
-Nathan
So....how'd I do?
