Howdy,

Got my gear last Friday and have been trying things out low and slow if you will.

Anyways, since I am just going a few feet up and then descending I am forced to learn how to do a up to down change over using the SRT.

I fumbled through it a few times with my figure 8 and my tube belay device that I have always used for rappelling during my rock climbing days.

Seeking a better way, I got a GriGri since it supposedly locks in place a little easier than the figure 8 (I don't like the double wrap on the 8 since it causes even more rope twist) and does not twist the rope.

Anyways, here is my procedure I figured out, I am going to try it this afternoon. Let me know what you think

1. Stand up
2. Move right Ascender up

3. Sit down
4. Attach grigri to rope (under R ascender) and clip to harness
5. Lock rope off above GriGri

6. Stand
7. Remove and store R ascender

8. Sit down
9. Remove L ascender

10. Unlock rope
11. Rappell

For easy memory go

Stand
Right Up

Sit
Clip
Lock

Stand
Right Off

Sit
Left Off

Unlock
Drop


Thoughts?

Bakes

You could just use the yo-yo ascending system, then there is no sit, stand up, business.. just unclip your ascender and away you go.

mateo

Please get a copy of the book, "On Rope" and memorize and practice the "Changover" steps listed there for your type of specific ascent and descent devices that you use.
We had a class last year with the author, Bruce Smith, and he even taught us after many many repititions of the changover steps, to do it blind folded while calling out each step as a group leader approved or reminded us of any steps forgotten. This should become like second nature so as to avoid almost any chance of accident.

I have the book...the de_script_ion on pg 301-302 is for a different set up. I am using CMI ultrascenders rather than the set-up in Fig 12-5, 12-6 and 12-7. That being said, if you read both, they are is basically the same proceedure except that my Right Ascender is acting as the QAS.

I didn't get out of work early enough to try it so I can't say either way on it yet. Anybody see anything wrong with the proceedure?

Just wondering if anybody here regularly does changeovers using the handled ascender setup with SRT.


Also, how many of y'all use a handled ascender QAS when you climb. If so, do you use it frequently or does it just sit on your belt.


Later

Bakes

I faced the change-over problem as well. I thought the traditional stand-sit, etc. was too cumbersome and I was pretty uncomfortable with it, height phobia I suppose.

So I came up with a load releasing tie-in that greatly simplifies the change-over. I construct a DRT tie-in complete with a Blake's hitch in the prusik cord. I use this to connect my harness to my ascender, hence, via the Blake's hitch and cord, I not only have an adjustable tie between my harness and ascender, I have a much simplified change over. To change over I:

1- remove my foot ascender and loops - I won't need them.

2- install my descender and lock it off

3- Via the Blake's hitch in the prusik cord, slowly transfer my weight from the ascender to the locked rappelling device

4- remove the ascender

5- rappel

Notice no standing to transfer weight. Try it; I promise you'll like it.

You might want to look in to the Petzl Pirana as well. I've used a tube device for a while, but after going to the pirana I'm sold.

Aside from being able to adjust the rappel friction in about six different ways. It is a very easy device to lock off. I've tied the mule knot on the tube device multiple times, and there's always that freaky slippage of rope when you release it. On the Pirana it is solid because an extra wrap goes up and over the device before you tie a mule knot.

The grigri is nice but it does have some limitations like smaller diameter ropes, inability to rappel on double rope and it's a little heavier and bulkier than something like a Pirana.

Another great thing about the pirana is it goes on your rappel/belay biner and it never comes off. No chance of dropping it from high up in the canopy.