RocknRoll-Thanks for that clarification. How about this saying- "See threads- You's deads"! So here is a question along that line.

Should a wrench be used to screw down the screw _link_? Lock it down, so to speak. I think Sherrill catalog says do it (or is he talking about the clevis?). What do you all think about that? Has anyone seen a screw _link_, be it delta or oval, unscrew itself?

Should this be a usage standard? The old addage- "screw down so you don't screw up."

In my use, a screw _link_ that will be opened later that day does not get wrenched. If it's a more permanent attachment, it get's the pliers (or allen wrench, etc)

love
nick

I have never had a screw _link_ come unscrewed once tightened, even when only hand tight. For long term use I do use a wrench on them, though. I feel that they are safe to use as attachment points.

Screw gate carabiners are another story. When I started climbing that's what I used and I was always have to rescrew them every so often while I was working up in the tree.

OK,
First time I have to step in to play devil's advocate. First I must say I WILL NOT climb on a screw lock (though I regularly descend on one). I had a very bad experience with one on a 5 story wall, it resulted in a short fall, stopped by a static lanyard (this was about 10+ years ago), and major bruising. My wife was actually looking over the wall when it happened, not fun.
That said, I cannot support any language in our final document that requires "positive locking" biners. I have a friend (who is also my regular climbing partner, some of you may remember Saplin' from the old days of this board) that will not use one. He is a professional in the field of adventure education. He uses only screw locks...we fight about this everytime we _link_ up. BUT, he always backs up his argument with a very good point, anything automatic makes people lazy. Heck, he's got me checking my lock now at _link_ up, and at the top of every pitch, 'cuz I am paranoid (no backup this time). Also I think that we cannot specify any particular technology, as this will stifle innovation.

I suggest the following terminology:

==START OF CLIP==
Connection to a climbing system, for the purposes of life safety operations (i.e. harness to climbing line), outside of direct tie-in may be made through several methods, listed below in order of the preference indicated by the authors of this document:
--EDITOR NOTE--the order below should be put up for a survey, so we get it right--
1. Quick _link_
2. Auto Locking/Positive Locking Carabiner
3. Manual Locking Carabiner

Non locking connections must not be used for life safety opperations. Non locking connections may be used for non-life safety connections to systems (i.e. equipment storage, footloop connections to ascenders, etc. )
==END OF CLIP==

Climb Safe! Lets be careful to not get carried away.
Icabod

My list of preferences is as follows...

1. Auto Locking/Positive Locking Carabiner
1.5- Snap hook
2. Quick _link_
3. Manual Locking Carabiner
4. 2 non-lockers used simultaneously, opposite and opposed

love
nick

I feel that giving a list of options in order of preference is going to lead us down a slippery slope. I prefer the simplicity of saying that we recommend a climber should use a positive locking carabiner.

What does everyone else think about this?